In the song Kaulana Kawaihae, lyrics by Kailihune Alama Na’ai, made famous by Iz Kamalawiwo’Ole, there is a verse “E’oleo Mai Kahiko Mai O Puakailima,” translated as “telling from old times of Pua ka Ilima.” I learned that this was an island where the ilima flower grew in the Kawaihae reef area before it was covered up or destroyed.
Kawaihae Reef was the largest reef on the Big Island, as you can see from the composite map showing the area as surveyed in 1932 with the current harbor infrastructures superimposed on it. I believe the reef remained in place until the late 1950s ( Hawaii became a state in 1959), when the US Corps of Engineers dredged it.
In the late 1950s, the US Army Corps of Engineers dredged Kawaihae Harbor and built a breakwater to protect it. In 1970, construction began on the small boat harbor. Following the improvement of the deep-draft harbor, vacation resorts began to appear near the beaches around Kawaihae Harbor. In 1962, the Corps of Engineers started widening the Kawaihae Harbor entrance channel and basin. They also extended the breakwater. (source: http://www.worldportsource.com/ports/review/USA_HI_Kawaihae_Harbor_Hawaii_828.php)
Why was the most extensive reef on an unpopulated island selected as a harbor when other naturally deeper areas are nearby? The existing harbor is unprotected from howling winds and NW winter swells. Ships linger far offshore on heavy wind and surf days.
The more important story here is what the reef was like. Was it abundant and rich, and what is its current status? Lesser stories but just as interesting to readers are what happened to the people and families that lived here. Few families are still in the area. What are their stories of the place? What inspired such a beautiful song?
There are new expansion plans for the Kawaihae harbor area. Some are under construction. Many big players have stakes in this area: DOT, DLNR, US military, Young Brothers, and Boaters. The group with the smallest voice and stands to lose even more access is you and I, the locals. Kawaihae Harbor and the break-wall are unique places where the public can enter and recreate during the day. The Surf Park folks, Pua Ka’ Ilima ‘O Kawaihae, who maintains the area along the break-wall, are a nonprofit that planted trees, built showers, and provided access to one of the best surf spots on the island. Their existence is very fragile. Users who came to recreate use resources like water and porta potties are unaware that the facilities in the park are maintained by donations and volunteers and not by the State. I understand that progress is inevitable. However, we need our voices heard about this amazing and important place that Kamehameha has selected to build his Heiau to unite the islands. We must ask the right questions and tell us about places and people and what is happening under the surface. What is given in return for the things that were taken?